Bite Of Minnesota: Canning Jalapenos

By Crystal Grobe   –   CBS Minnesota

It really is fall, isn’t it? Time to accept the change of seasons, especially after attending the last outdoor markets at both Kingfield and Mill City recently. The final sign? Daylight Saving Time. At least we still have a few warm weather days ahead, so soak up all the sunshine you can!

Right now I’m working on preserving, canning, and jelly projects in the kitchen. I missed the tomato wave but I’m not too late for the pepper wave. We have quite a few jalapenos from our home garden and I was gifted a few from my brother, so I decided to turn them into candied jalapenos. I have made these in the past and trust me, they are spicy! Remove the seeds and membrane for a milder version and don’t forget to use gloves!

(credit: Crystal Grobe)

These candied jalapenos are best paired with goat cheese, cream cheese, or another “cooling” spread, perfect for a party appetizer. I’ve used it as a garnish on nachos, in quesadillas, and even used the syrup in a (very spicy) cocktail.

Candied Jalapeños. Ah. There’s a story here. Once upon a time, my friend Katie casually mentioned eating a sandwich made with Candied Jalapeños. She was singing the praises of what she described as an addictive jar of goodies. Then she said the magic words, “I wish I could figure out how to make these at home.” By this point, you know me enough to know what affect that statement has on me, right?  I quizzed her on the texture, flavor, and appearance of the jalapeno rings. I begged for photographs. I had her send me a picture of the ingredient list on the label. I asked her to describe the flavor to the very best of her food blogging abilities. She was game. She provided all the information.

After carefully examining close to thirty recipes on Candied Jalapeños, also known as cowboy candy (who KNEW there were so many people candying jalapenos?) I called my local Cooperative Extension office to pick the brain of their home food preservation specialists. Since jalapeños are a low-acid food, some precautions need to be taken when canning them. You have two choices for safely canning peppers of any kind; you can pressure can them or you can acidify (i.e. add vinegar, lemon juice, etc…) the liquid in which you pack the peck of pickled peppers.

I opted for acidifying the pepper liquid because I wanted to maintain some of the texture of the peppers through the process because pressure canning Candied Jalapeños would turn them to flavorful mush.  The result was gobsmackingly, head-spinningly, brain-addlingly delicious.  Sweet, spicy and savory, Candied Jalapeño rings are way too easy to eat on just about everything.  I’ve stashed them in sandwiches, chopped them up on baked beans, tucked them into tacos, used the syrup to brush meat on the grill, perched a couple rings on top of a cream cheese laden cracker and all sorts of other evil things.

For such a simple thing to can, these pack tons of flavor.  You’re going to want to make as many of these as you possibly can simultaneously, because once that first jar is cracked open you’re not going to be able to stop eating them.  And I mean it. I am not kidding with you when I say that I barter with jars of these for valuable goods. Candied Jalapeños have fed my fine pottery addiction because my favorite local potter is as Candied Jalapeño fixated as I am with her pottery.

COOK’S NOTES:

  • Hate canning? Afraid of canning? For those of you who may be freaking out slightly or massively over the idea of canning, rest easy. You can follow all of the instructions up to the actually canning portion, then stash the jars in the refrigerator for up to three months. You get a year out of canning, but if an alternative is all that stands between you and making them, use your chill chest!
  • Wear gloves when working with the peppers. Not a wimp? Neither am I… but jalapeños have a notoriously wide range of heat on the Scoville scale.
  • Let’s address slicing the peppers, because we’re going to be going through 3 pounds, folks. The quickest, easiest way to do so is with a slicing blade on a food processor, standing the peppers on their ends in the feed chute. No food processor? Use a mandolin! No mandolin? Just take your time and slice by hand with a very sharp knife and gloved hands.
  • I’ve been asked many times whether you should discard the seeds. I don’t because we like them. Contrary to the old wives’ tales, seeds do not contain the heat of a pepper. The membrane inside the pepper packs the most punch. Since you’re not removing that, don’t sweat the seeds. Heh. Pepper humour.
  • Quite a few folks have asked WHEN exactly to start timing the boiling of the peppers. You begin timing them once the liquid has returned to a full rolling boil. As soon as it reaches a full rolling boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and let it simmer gently (gentle bubbles that blub up) for 4 minutes. To clarify further, you will not be boiling them HARD for 4 minutes, you will bring them to a boil then drop the heat and simmer.
  • Many, many people have asked me whether they messed up the recipe because their peppers look all shriveled after simmering them in the syrup, packing them in jars, and canning them. The short answer is no. The long answer is that you’re fine and they WILL look shriveled when you jar them up if you’ve simmered them properly. They will re-plump as they spend those 4 weeks of rest time in the jar between processing and opening.
  • Yes, I said 4 weeks. My husband has been known to crack a jar at the two week mark out of desperation for candied jalapenos, but he will absolutely agree with me that they improve immensely in flavour and texture when left to mellow for at least 4 weeks after processing. Try to be patient. You’ll be rewarded.
  • How to serve them? On cream cheese and crackers, obviously… On sandwiches, on salads, chopped up in dips, on taco soup, on tortilla soup, on tacos, on pizza… The sky is the limit. I kind of suspect my husband would eat them on breakfast cereal if he didn’t know I’d wonder about his sanity.
CANDIED JALAPENOS
Author: Rebecca Lindamood
Recipe type: Canning, Condiment, Ingredient
Prep time: 
Cook time: 
Total time: 
Serves: 32
There aren’t words that exist to describe how addictive these little savoury, sweet, spicy, crunchy, garlicky pickled jalapeno rounds are. Put them on sandwiches, tacos, rice or bake them into cornbread. You’ll need more and more!
INGREDIENTS
  • 3 pounds fresh, firm, jalapeno peppers, washed
  • 2 cups cider vinegar
  • 6 cups white granulated sugar
  • ½ teaspoon turmeric
  • ½ teaspoon celery seed
  • 3 teaspoons granulated garlic
  • 1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
INSTRUCTIONS
  1. Wearing gloves, remove the stems from all of the jalapeno peppers. The easiest way to do this is to slice a small disc off of the stem-end along with the stem. Discard the stems.
  2. Slice the peppers into uniform ⅛-1/4 inch rounds. Set aside.
  3. In a large pot, bring cider vinegar, white sugar, turmeric, celery seed, granulated garlic and cayenne pepper to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the pepper slices and simmer for exactly 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the peppers, loading into clean, sterile canning jars to within ¼ inch of the upper rim of the jar. Turn heat up under the pot with the syrup and bring to a full rolling boil. Boil hard for 6 minutes.
  4. Use a ladle to pour the boiling syrup into the jars over the jalapeno slices. Insert a cooking chopstick to the bottom of the jar two or three times to release any trapped pockets of air. Adjust the level of the syrup if necessary. Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean, damp paper towel and fix on new, two-piece lids to finger-tip tightness.
  5. *If you have leftover syrup, and it is likely that you will, you may can it in half-pint or pint jars, too. It’s wonderful brushed on meat on the grill or added to potato salad or, or, or… In short, don’t toss it out!
  6. Place jars in a canner, cover with water by 2-inches. Bring the water to a full rolling boil. When it reaches a full rolling boil, set the timer for 10 minutes for half-pints or 15 minutes for pints. When timer goes off, use canning tongs to transfer the jars to a cooling rack. Leave them to cool, undisturbed, for 24 hours. When fully cooled, wipe them with a clean, damp washcloth then label.
  7. Allow to mellow for at least two weeks, but preferably a month before eating. Or don’t. I won’t tell!
NOTES
I know this sounds crazy, but double this recipe. People will beg you for jars of this and get surly if you say no. Just. Trust. Me.

 

A WORD ON FOOD: Banh Mi

By Erica Bonelli   –   The Diamondback

Banh Mi [bahn mee]: A Vietnamese sandwich in which various meats, pickled vegetables, spicy peppers and a spicy sauce are layered inside a crispy, fresh baguette.

Origin: Vietnamese

Banh mi is the bastard child of French and Viet cuisine; an intriguing combination that came about when the French colonized Vietnam. The French brought the bread, the Vietnamese brought the fillings, and the rest is history.

According to banh mi expert Andrea Nguyen, who authored the bestselling “Banh Mi Handbook,” there are eight main components to a banh mi sandwich:

1. Bread

Banh mi bread is typically soft on the inside but flaky on the outside, made of both wheat and rice flour. When making the sandwich, the bread is warmed up first.

2. Mayonnaise

Banh mi typically come smeared with a flavorful sriracha or herb mayo to add a new dimension of heat and flavor in every bite.

3. Maggi seasoning

Maggi seasoning is the secret ingredient that distinguishes the salty flavor of a banh mi. Maggi seasoning is similar to soy sauce but does not contain any soy.

4. Meat

In banh mi sandwiches, the vegetables are the star, but a small portion of seasoned meats such as pork, chicken or tofu are often added for variation.

5. Pickles

Pickles are considered the critical element of a banh mi. Vietnamese pickles are sweeter than American pickles and add a tang and a crunch to the sandwich. The most popular combination is pickled carrot and daikon (also called do chua).

6. Fresh Chilies

The addition of fresh chilies such as jalapeños adds a little heat in every bite of the sandwich, balancing out the tartness from the pickles and cool crunch of the cucumber.

7. Cucumber

The cucumber cools down your palette from the vibrant and spicy flavors of the chilies, sriracha mayo, and pickles. It also adds a fresh crunch that pairs perfectly with the coolness of the cilantro.

8. Herbs

Cilantro is almost always added to the top of a banh mi sandwich for a fresh cooling element that complements the cucumber. But don’t fret: If you’re one of about 10 percent of the population who thinks cilantro tastes like soap and bugs, you can substitute fresh mint or basil or skip the herbs.

Want to give it a try? Here’s a recipe for a classic banh mi sandwich, courtesy of Food Network. The recipe includes directions for pickling your own vegetables, but you can always buy them already pickled at most grocery stores.

Ingredients

For the slaw:

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup distilled white vinegar

1/2 cup julienned carrot

1/2 cup julienned daikon radish

Kosher salt

For the seasoned pork:

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion

6 ounces ground pork

1 tablespoon roast pork seasoning mix, available in Asian markets

Pinch garlic powder

Pinch ground black pepper

For the sandwiches:

4 (10-inch) baguettes

Mayonnaise, as needed

8 thin slices Vietnamese-style pork roll (cha lua), or bologna

8 slices Vietnamese-style salami, or ham or turkey

4 teaspoons soy sauce

1/2 cup fresh cilantro sprigs

1/4 medium English cucumber, cut lengthwise into 4 slices

Freshly ground black pepper

Asian-style chili oil, to taste, optional

Directions

For the slaw:

In a small saucepan, combine the water, sugar and vinegar and bring to a boil. Transfer the vinegar mixture to a bowl and cool. Add the carrot and daikon, mix well and season with salt. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes or store in the refrigerator up to overnight.

For the seasoned pork:

Heat the oil in small nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft. Add the pork, seasoning, garlic and pepper, and cook, stirring, until just cooked through, about two to three minutes. Remove the heat and set aside covered with foil to keep warm.

For the sandwiches:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Slice the baguettes open lengthwise, and slather the insides with mayonnaise. Arrange the baguettes on a baking sheet and bake until hot and crusty, about five minutes. Remove the baguettes from the oven and immediately fill each with some of the seasoned pork. In each sandwich, arrange 2 slices each of the pork roll and salami, 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1/2 tablespoon cilantro, 1 slice cucumber, ground pepper, and chili oil, if using. Serve immediately with the slaw on the side.

Wondering where you can find this toasty treat? Washington, D.C., has dozens of restaurants and food trucks that serve up a perfect banh mi, including Simply Banh Mi in Georgetown, which takes a twist on the classic sandwich by adding a fried egg on top, BONMi, and Pho 14, which has three locations around Washington. For banh mi on the go, try PhoWheels, which tops its banh mi with a truffle aioli.

Former Vlasic Pickles president, executive search firm founder Dennis Sullivan dies

By

Former Vlasic Pickles Co. President Dennis Burns Sullivan, who also made a name for himself in the executive search industry, died Friday at his Bloomfield Hills home. He was 74.

The native Detroiter graduated from the University of Detroit High School, served in the U.S. Air Force and return home to earn bachelor’s and master’s degrees in business from the University of Detroit.

He began his career in sales at General Foods before moving to Detroit-based Vlasic Pickles, where he rose to president of the company. Following the sale of Vlasic Foods to Campbell Soup in 1978, Sullivan opened a local office for Management Recruiters International Inc. and in 1981 founded Sullivan & Associates, which became the largest executive search firm in metro Detroit and a licensee of Boyden Executive Search.

Sullivan served as a trustee for the Brother Rice Dad’s Club, Lourdes Senior Community, theCardinal Club of Detroit and Henry Ford Health System, where he later received a double lung transplant.

He is survived by his wife Patricia; sons Christopher William, Daniel Burns and Michael John; and seven grandchildren.

Visitation is set for 3-8 p.m. Wednesday at A.J. Desmond & Sons Funeral Home in Royal Oak. A funeral mass is 11 a.m. Thursday at St. Regis Church in Bloomfield Hills, preceded by visitation at 10 a.m.

Memorial donations may be made to University of Detroit Jesuit High School or Brother Rice High School.

Here’s where you’ll find your Polish sour cherries and seriously tart pickles

KEVIN BROOKER, SWERVE
More from Kevin Brooker, Swerve

I had the good fortune of touring Poland a number of years back, when glasnost was still young. I went expecting austerity, and was shocked to find myself eating some of the best meals of my life. Poland gets called Eastern Europe, but it’s really dead-centre. Consequently, its complex food traditions (and supply lines) span the old world heartland, from Germany to Russia and from the Baltic to the Mediterranean. It’s in no way surprising that ur-foodie Martha Stewart was born Martha Kostyra, full-blooded Pole. And Calgary, it turns out, is unexpectedly rich in this food tradition, thanks to a handful of delicatessens with ties to the motherland—most of which happen to be on the city’s south side at places like Cracovia, Old Fashion Meats and Heritage Bakery.

Acadia’s Polcan is one of the more popular spots, where you can smell the smokehouse the minute you hit the strip-mall parking lot. Polcan does the Euro mini-supermarket thing well, with tiny, packed aisles next to a busy meat counter where the focus is obviously on the many varieties of sausage and cold cuts. Like everything else here, they’re the real deal. Out front, the fresh-bread racks feature a dozen species of rye and as many kinds of poppy-seed pastries. In the cold case there’s twarog, dry curd cheese which is the central ingredient in Poland’s distinct style of cheesecake, and oscypek, smoked sheep’s cheese from Zakopane, the Banff of Poland. There’s even a special cream cheese made specifically for baking—and a refrigerated case of creamy pastries to inspire you. Polcan also has a small steam table for reasonably priced takeout or eat-in, with classics like perogies, cabbage rolls and bigos, the national dish: a hunter’s stew of sauerkraut and mixed meats (but always the house kielbasa).

Don’t ignore the aisles, though, where pantry treasures abound. Most Canadians already know one Polish standard—polski ogorki—or at least, the Canadianized version of the dill pickle. These delis have scores of more authentic pickle variants worth trying, including beets, peppers, carrots and mushrooms. They’re also a condiment paradise, with more approaches to horseradish, mayonnaise and mustard than you could ever imagine. Apple horseradish? Don’t knock it until you try it. You’ll find that many of the products only have Polish labels (unless you count that poorly informative white sticker that satisfies French-English labelling laws), but almost all of them have excellent pictures. By the way, although many of Calgary’s 30,000 or so Poles are recent immigrants, you won’t have a problem dealing in English.

I would also urge you to explore the fruit side. I’ve always found packaged European juices to be somehow richer than ours, and Poland’s are among the best. The nation produces first-class pears, apricots, plums, blueberries, cranberries, currants and, my personal favourite, sour cherries (see sidebar). All of them come in numerous forms, including fruit-only, jams, compotes and syrups.

Fortunately for us left-bankers, there is a Polish treasure north of the Bow. Jan’s Meats and Deli is the dziadek (grand-daddy) on the Calgary scene, with nearly three decades of service. An easy right turn off Crowchild northbound, its convenience is only exceeded by its excellence. Jan offers bespoke charcuterie, of course, but he also provides something pretty rare around here these days: a full-service butchery with high quality and reasonable prices. Order ground beef or pork and it goes through the grinder right on the spot. It’s also my go-to place if I need a custom cut like a crown roast.

Jan sells bulk house-made sauerkraut, herring, dills, smoked mackerel and a variety of prepared foods on the perogie and cabbage-roll spectrum. Its dairy case, too, teems with goodness. Try the supremely rich MC Dairy brand sour cream—for example, in a salad with cucumber, lemon juice and fresh dill—for an instant taste of Polish summer.

 

Pucker Up

Sour cherries—Prunus cerasus—come in many preserved forms. The jams are tart and wonderful, while the juice makes a great soda splash. Use a jar of them in light syrup as a filling in sweet perogies, the perfect way to celebrate Poland’s independence day, November 11.

Kelso: Manchaca native in a pickle, and that’s a good thing

By John Kelso   –   Austin American-Statesman

Kenneth Hoosier took his granddad’s advice. When he told his grandfather he wanted to own a bar just like he did, the old man set him straight.

“He said, ‘Boy, you don’t want to own one of those juke joints,’” Kenneth recalled.

So instead, Kenneth has gone into the pickle business. Kenneth has produced a line of pickles he calls “Bad As Gourmet Pickles.” He left off the second “s” in the name so no one would be offended.

“Kids like ’em, too,” he said.

Kenneth lives in Manchaca, a small community about a dozen miles south of downtown Austin. Manchaca, now covered up in middle-class cookie cutter neighborhoods, was once rural and inhabited by African-American farmers.

Kenneth traces his lineage to those folks. His grandfather, Samuel H. Dodson, had a farm where he grew vegetables and slaughtered hogs to turn them into bacon.

Kenneth remembers the farm from his childhood, hanging out with granddad.

“It was my first time seeing a pig hung from a tree,” he recalled. His grandfather butchered the hogs and cooked them over a barrel.

“The ribs from one of the hogs, he barbecued ‘em and they fell off the bone. And they were really good,” Kenneth said.

Samuel H. Dodson had a bar in Manchaca. Kenneth doesn’t remember the name, but his grandfather ran it out of the building on Manchaca Road now occupied by Giddy-Ups Saloon. Dodson put up the building in the 1950s. Kenneth says his grandfather owned another bar, the Aristocrat, on East 11th Street.

“He was a pretty good guy,” Kenneth said. “My mom told me he didn’t believe in keeping his money in banks. He was a very generous guy.”

Dodson was known for the barbecues he threw at the Aristocrat. His best friend, a guy known as Mailman, did the cooking. “And he would have people come into the bar and eat,” Kenneth said.

Dodson owned quite a chunk of property in Manchaca. Kenneth is living an ancient house owned by his grandfather that has seen better days. When you see the place, you might well wonder if somebody is living inside. The house sits at the end of a bumpy dirt path. Kenneth wants to sell the house and the property to raise “seed money” for his Bad As Pickles venture.

Meanwhile, he’s keeping his day job, working security at a private complex.

The pickle business is off to a slow start, but Kenneth is working on it. He dropped off some Bad As Gourmet Pickles at Rudy’s Barbecue to see if the place would carry them. Before that can happen, Kenneth has to put a bar code and the nutritional facts on the bottles. Although the motto is already on the label: “Just can’t eat one.”

I suspect they’re fiery, though. The liquid inside the pickle jar is a ferocious red.

Kenneth has tried a little bit of everything to make a living. He dabbles in music. He wrote a song called “Cowboy Christmas.” But his true love is football. His dream was to play in the National Football League. He was a running back at what was Johnston High School in East Austin and was apparently a good one.

“They compared me to Eric Metcalf, I think, at that time,” he said. He played football for a couple of junior colleges. He says the University of Houston was interested, but he was interested in the University of Texas, and too stubborn to change his mind.

“I did have a chance to play over in Europe, but this was how my head was back then: I didn’t want to play in Europe. I wanted to play in the NFL,” he said.

Kenneth says he went to a couple of NFL tryouts. “Of course, I didn’t get picked ’cause I’m sitting here now,” he said, as we chatted at a table inside Manchaca’s Macho Taco, talking pickles.

So if the pickles don’t take off, how about that beer joint? Is that out of the question?

“I haven’t given up. It’s on my list of things to get done,” Kenneth said. “And if my grandfather were alive today, I would have it.”

From Pears To Peaches, Ça Va Chef Elise Landry Embraces The Pickling Trend

Pickling is a trend picking up all over the country, and Elise Landry, sous chef at Ça Va in Kansas City’s Westport neighborhood, is pickling everything. Turnips, husk cherries, shallots … you name it, she’s pickled it.

“The other day I was called a pickled petunia by a customer, which I’ll always remember,” she laughs.

Initially, Landry started pickling to keep the seasonal produce she got from the Brookside Farmer’s Market fresh. But it’s gone far beyond practicalities.

“I’ve had a lot of great feedback,” she says. “They’re all housemade pickles. People get that, and they love it. They’re like, ‘Did you make all of these pickles?’ And I’m like, ‘Yeah! This is my way of preserving summer and spring on a plate for you to enjoy.’”

When pickling, Elise says, first you have to process the produce. Slicing or dicing, slightly roasting or blanching — all of these methods ensure that the flavors of the brine will permeate the fruits and vegetables.

Whether making a traditional pickle with cucumbers, or pickling a fruit or vegetable, the pickling liquid remains standard.

“My general rule of thumb for a really basic pickle is equal parts vinegar and sugar, and half a part water,” Landry says.

Other ingredients and variations are up to preference. You can pair certain spices and various kinds of vinegar depending on what you’re pickling. For peaches, Landry pairs rosemary sprigs. For green tomatoes, she adds a dash of turmeric for a bit of flavor, but mostly to preserve and enhance the natural, lime green hue of the tomatoes. For red onions or red beets, she uses red wine vinegar.

After you bring those ingredients to a slow boil over medium heat, allowing the sugar and spices to dissolve together, you pour the hot liquid right over the produce. Cool it to room temperature, then store it.

Landry’s go-to method is known as quick pickling. It’s just one of various pickling methods that have become popular, including salt brining, vinegar brining and fermentation.

Though her pickling may be fast and, she claims, ‘simple,’ the results are complex and tasty, not to mention well-utilized throughout the menu at Ça Va. Even during brunch on Sundays, you can build your own mimosas using shrubs and syrups crafted from muddled pickles and brines.

“When I break down what makes something taste really good, it’s the perfect balance between fat and acid,” Landry says.

And pickles, she says, are a great way to bring that acid, and a little crunch and bite, to any dish.