Life Is Sweet For Backyard Brine. And Sour. And Spicy And …

By GREGORY ZELLER   –   Innovateli

Randy Kopke knows there’s an artisan in all of us.

For the self-employed contractor – tile and masonry, mostly – it turned out to be pickling, a hobby he shared with his wife, Cori, a freelance bookkeeper.

Just two years after the amateurs supplied 200 jars of handcrafted pickles as favors for a relative’s Montauk wedding, their inner entrepreneurs have come roaring out. Their 2013 startup Backyard Brine Inc. is graduating from Stony Brook University’s Business Incubator at Calverton; several high-profile shops and supermarket chains are carrying their wares, with more to come; and the Kopkes are fully invested in bringing their pickles to the next retail level.

Randy actually gave up contracting as of 2014 to focus on Backyard Brine, and while Cori is still providing accounting services to multiple companies, she spends plenty of time balancing Backyard’s books – and is looking to transition fully to the family business.

Running the skyrocketing startup is not exactly what the Kopkes had planned. But they spent a couple of days in Montauk after that wedding and were surprised to see word of their pickles spreading – “the talk of the town,” according to Randy. They were doubly surprised when folks asked for more.

“People started calling us and ordering pickles,” Randy said. “Then the IGA in East Northport offered to carry them.”

Realizing that pickles could be their bread and butter, the Kopkes incorporated and “spent the rest of 2013 learning how to be a food company,” Randy added. Cori’s accounting expertise went a long way, but their greatest advantage were the outrageous pickles.

“People were going nuts for them,” Randy said, noting a variety of 10 dills and sweets including Dill Death Do Us Part, a popular garlic dill, and the Everything Bread and Butter, which is fermented in a variety of seeds and a Vermont maple syrup brine.

Other top sellers: the habanero-dill Rowdy Pepper Belly and summer-season favorites Smokey Sienna, bathed with smoked jalapenos, and BBQ Betty Lou, a sweeter jalapeno alternative.

“They’re all very popular,” Randy said. “They’re all pretty good sellers.”

Good enough to land Backyard Brine, so far, on the shelves of 100 independent and chain retail outlets between Brooklyn and Montauk, as well as single-store shops in Georgia, Maryland, Pennsylvania and Vermont.

The fledgling company’s marketing has been completely word-of-mouth and legwork; the Kopkes have attended many food shows, including the national nonprofit Specialty Food Association’s enormous Summer Fancy Food Show, held in June at New York City’s Jacob Javits Center.

That show and others have led directly to retail deals, including Backyard Brine’s November debut with Whole Foods Market, the Texas-based supermarket chain specializing in organic products. Whole Foods is rolling out the brand slowly; for now, it’s only available at the chain’s Lake Grove store, but after the holidays Backyard’s pickles should appear at other Long Island Whole Foods locations, then at stores in Brooklyn and Manhattan and “around the Northeast,” Randy said.

The pickles are already available at IGA markets across Long Island and several Island-based specialty food stores and butcher shops, with strong concentrations in the Hamptons and Oyster Bay areas.

Backyard Brine wound up in a Baltimore shop, he added, after the Kopkes attended Expo East, a September natural products showcase held in Maryland.

It’s an impressive rise for two amateur enthusiasts who weren’t even imagining professional pickling just 30 months ago.

“When we spoke to a consultant last year, she said the amount of stores we got into as quickly as we did was just unbelievable,” Randy said. “I guess you never know what’s going to happen.”

With the Whole Foods expansion and other retail deals pending, the Kopkes are now looking to step up production. That starts with Backyard Brine’s first-ever corporate HQ: They’ve been pickling at the Calverton Incubator since March of 2014, but have now leased a 2,000-square-foot space on Cox Lane in Cutchogue.

Their Long Island-based distributor has enough stock on hand to satisfy customer demand through the end of the year, Randy noted, and if necessary the Kopkes can still use the Calverton kitchens for new production. But the plan is to be out of Calverton, and up and running in the new Backyard Brine headquarters, by January.

The Cutchogue rental includes enough room for a small retail shop up front, Randy added, in addition to 1,800 square feet of manufacturing space. That will come in handy as Backyard Brine grows its product line – new relishes and condiments are on tap, as well as those seasonal offerings – and new retail deals come to fruition.

“There are buying seasons, and spring is definitely better,” Randy said. “We’ll hit it hard again in two months, when stores start picking up.”

The pickle brokers also expect their Cox Lane location to pay off. It’s within cork-popping distance of numerous Cutchogue vineyards, meaning a potentially rich combination of local and day-tripping customers.

“Everyone says we’re very lucky to be in this location,” Randy said.

Backyard Brine was also lucky to be among the first Long Island companies accepted into Empire State Development’s new Innovation Hot Spot program. The state initiative, run locally by SBU, offers tax breaks, mentoring, continuing education and business-development assistance to startups affiliated with Island incubator programs.

Unlike the similar Start-Up NY program, which requires startups to be physically located near a university or research center, Innovation Hot Spot’s benefits are portable, meaning Backyard Brine can take its five-year moratorium on state sales and corporate taxes to Cutchogue.

That’s welcome relief for entrepreneurs who’ve spent roughly $25,000 getting their startup to this point, on everything from cucumbers to jars to food-show fees.

“The tax savings are incredible,” Randy said. “And any little bit of money we can save helps out.”

Backyard Brine Inc.

What’s It? Artisan pickles

Brought To You By: Amateur hobbyists-turned-entrepreneurs Randy and Cori Kopke

All In: About $25,000, self-funded, for food show fees, tools of the trade and incorporation costs

Status: Taking the East Coast one market at a time

Sausages, potatoes, mustardy dressing and pickles

By 

This is a bit New York-deli, with a creamy dressing flavored with dill, and mild vinegar pickles, but also English chipolatas and waxy potatoes. An easy dish that works well hot, on its own, but also cold, with charcuterie, smoked fish, cheese and bread.

MAKES

20 bowls

INGREDIENTS

  • 2kg small waxy salad potatoes (Charlotte  or similar)
  • 20 good-quality pork chipolatas vegetable oil, for frying

For the dressing

  • 4 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 4 tsp caster sugar
  • 1 tbsp red-wine vinegar
  • 150ml extra-virgin olive oil or  groundnut oil
  • 60ml double cream to serve
  • 1 x 400g jar cornichons, drained and chopped into little rounds
  • 1 x 200g jar small capers, drained and roughly chopped
  • 100g fresh dill, chopped
  • 100g fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

METHOD

Boil the potatoes in plenty of water until they are tender but still waxy at the centre. Drain and set aside.

Twist each chipolata to make two smaller sausages. Separate them using a pair of scissors. Fry them in a little vegetable oil until golden and cooked through, then keep them in a warm place.

Combine all the dressing ingredients, plus two teaspoons  of salt and two tablespoons of water. Whisk until you have a well-emulsified mixture. Taste, and adjust the flavours if necessary –  a drop more vinegar or a little more salt or sugar, perhaps.

Quarter the potatoes and put them in a large bowl with the dressing, cornichons, capers and herbs, and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Mix well. Serve in bowls, with two small sausages in each.

 

Russian ban offset by Turkey’s pickling industry

ANADOLU AGENCY   –   Daily Sabah

Known as Turkey’s capital of pickling, Bursa’s Gedelek village has come to the rescue of farmers facing a Russian boycott of their vegetables, promising to pickle and export all unsold vegetables across the country.

Gedelek Agricultural Development Cooperative Chairman Mustafa Şener said Antalya’s farmers were the main victims of the Russian ban that came after Turkey shot down a Russian jet that violated its airspace, arguing that unsold vegetables needed to be utilized.

“Since the announcement of the Russian boycott, between 500 and 600 tons of produce arrived in Gedelek. There is no reason why farmers need to suffer. We, as the pickling industry of Gedelek, are willing to do everything possible to prevent Russian bans from harming our country. We are determined to pickle all unsold vegetables and then to sell them across the world. We already have a market. They don’t need to stress about it. They can call us anytime they want.”

In the past, Antalya provided only a small fraction of the pickled vegetables, he said, noting that those which came were unseasonal produce grown in greenhouses. “In the last week, we are receiving between 50 to 80 tons of vegetables a day,” he said.

Gedelek Muhtar Mehmet Dönmez said Gedelek pickle had become a globally recognized brand, with 25 percent of the 20,000 tons produced annually sold overseas. He said 17 different types of pickles were produced in the region. “Domestically, our most popular pickles are those made from cucumber and cabbage. Overseas, we sell mainly sweet pickles, mainly garlic and beetroot.”

He said as a result of the Russian ban, which was also boycotting pickles, local producers had moved onto other markets. “I’m calling on all vegetable producers harmed by the ban. Let’s pickle them and sell them all over the world. Our country is strong and won’t be harmed by Russia. We are behind our government’s stance and are willing to do what’s necessary to overcome all adversity.”

TV exec shares Refrigerator Bread and Butter Pickles

Jan D’Atri, Special for The Republic | azcentral.com

Jan’s Rescued Recipes: Jack Clifford has found right balance of sweet and sour for delicious, crisp pickle

Looking to give a gift from the kitchen this year? Try a recipe from the man who gifted us with the creation of the Food Network, longtime Arizona resident Jack Clifford.

Jack’s Refrigerated Bread and Butter Pickles just made it on my short list of new favorite culinary gifts because they are about the tastiest sweet pickles I’ve ever munched and crunched on. But you won’t find this recipe in his new book. He’s sharing it for the first time in this column.

Clifford’s remarkable career includes launching a student radio station in Michigan, becoming KTVK Channel 3’s first sports anchor, a past president and general manager of Channel 12, and eventually the creator of the Food Network.

It’s all chronicled in his new book, “The Least Likely To Succeed,” detailing Clifford’s journey from bottom of the class to top of the business world, and is filled with behind the scenes stories from friends and colleagues like Walter Cronkite, Ted Turner and Robin Leach, the very first Food Network star.

Despite the book’s title, Clifford found the recipe for success over and over again — in business, and in the kitchen. That’s where he developed a passion for all kinds of foods including bread and butter chips. Here’s how he explains his quest for pickle perfection:

“I’ve been a pickle aficionado all of my life,” he said. “Searching for the perfect combination of ingredients, I finally tweaked everything to just the right balance of sweet and sour. They are always a hit at parties and everyone is always impressed with the homemade touch. What everyone really doesn’t know is how very simple it is to make these pickles at home. They are delicious and so crisp!”

Agreed, Jack.  They’re absolutely pickle-icious!

“The Least Likely To Succeed” is available on Amazon.com and Barnes and Nobles. It can be ordered at Changing Hands Bookstores in Phoenix and is also available on Kindle and Nook.

Share a family kitchen memory or heritage recipe with Jan D’Atri. Reach her atjan@jandatri.com or visit www.jandatri.com.  Catch her in the Arizona Midday kitchen weekdays from 12:30-2 p.m. on Channel 12. 

Jack Clifford’s Refrigerator Bread and Butter Pickles

Ingredients:

2 pounds Persian, Kirby or English cucumbers

2 1/2 cups granulated sugar

2 cups white distilled vinegar

2 tablespoons salt

2 teaspoons pickling spice

2 teaspoons mustard seed

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1/2 sweet yellow onion, sliced very thin

Directions:

In a large saucepan, add sugar, vinegar, salt, pickling spice, mustard seeds and turmeric.

Stir to combine then bring to a rolling boil. Turn heat to simmer, cover and cook for 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let cool completely.

Wash and slice cucumbers crosswise into 1/2-inch rounds for chips or lengthwise for spears. Place chips or spears and sliced onion into one 6-cup mason jar or two 3-cup mason jars.  (Make sure jars are clean but not necessary to sterilize.)

Pour cooled pickling marinade over pickles. Firmly pack pickles into the jar allowing 1/2 inch of pickling juice at the top. Seal jars and refrigerate for 48 hours. After opening, they will last three months.

 

 

Around the Holiday Table

Four dishes that define the season in the Alamo City

 

Gifts to savor

JULIANA GOODWIN, Food columnist   –   The Baxter Bulletin

A savory gift from the kitchen is a welcome change this time of year.

I adore homemade gifts, particularly edible ones, but I get tired of sweets. After half a dozen cookies, I long for something salty which is why I predominantly dish out savory gifts.

Savory gifts are unique, practical and often healthier.

There are presents I parcel out each year — like my jalapeno infused vodka — and new additions every season. I have four recipes this week, so let’s get to the good stuff.

I am known in my family for my jalapeno infused vodka; I’ve been making it for years and it’s so easy. All I do is add jalapenos to vodka and let it seep for a few days. Then strain the vodka and package it in pretty bottles. I give it with a bottle of Zing Zang Bloody Mary Mix and pickled green beans or asparagus. The recipient can drink it immediately or keep it for a cold February morning.

Another staple in my gift giving are rosemary almonds which I first tried at a Spanish restaurant. I loved them so much I came home and recreated them.

The olive cheeseball is a good hostess gift because it can be served immediately or kept for up to five days. It’s simple and delicious. Serve it with French bread or crackers. For pretty presentation, you can buy a nice plate (and leave it as a gift), make the cheeseball, surround it with crackers, add a Christmas spreader and then wrap it all up in clear gift wrapping and tie it with a bow.

My last gift is one that your friends are not likely to receive from anyone else: Dukkah. I was introduced to dukkah, which is an Egyptian spice mix that is used as a dip, in Australia. It’s wildly popular there are served at restaurants and vineyards. The mix is made by toasting and then grinding nuts and spices together. It is served with French bread and extra virgin olive oil and first you dip the bread into the olive oil and then into the dukkah and the oil makes the dukkah stick to the bread. This dip is excellent with wine and I serve it at a lot of parties and people love it because it’s so different. The dukkah should be stored in an airtight container and will last a month. You can experiment with a variety of nuts- hazelnuts and pistachios are popular. In my recipe, I use a combination of macadamia, almond and pistachio nuts. I bought a spice jar to give it away.

If none of these recipes appeal to you, then here are a few more ideas: Make a savory bread like beer bread, focaccia, or potato bread and give that away in lieu of sweet breads.

Make savory popcorn, nut mixes or your own version of Chex mix.

If you know someone who was recently widowed or lives alone, make a couple batches of soup that freeze well and then buy disposable red and green containers. Fill the containers with soup and stack them up like a tower and tie them together. The recipient can freeze the individual portions (seniors particularly appreciate this gift).

Another gift I made years ago for an elderly neighbor was a birdseed wreath (for her to feed the birds, not consume herself). I just bought refrigerated pizza dough and braided it into a wreath and pressed bird seed into the wreath and she put it outside to attract birds.

A gift from the kitchen is truly a gift from the heart. I hope you enjoy making some of these recipes.

Jalapeño Infused Vodka

1 bottle of vodka

3 fresh jalapeños

Decorative bottle or bottles for gifting

Bloody Mary Mix

Pickled green beans, asparagus or okra

Note: I usually split the vodka into 2-3 bottles so this makes 2-3 gifts depending on the size of the decorative bottles.

Wear gloves to work with jalapeños. Select fresh, unblemished jalapeños and wash and dry them before using.

Pour out a few ounces of vodka and make yourself a drink (you need room for the jalapeños). Slice the stems off jalapeños and cut jalapeño into fourths. Stuff the peppers in the vodka (you want some seeds as this adds heat). When done, seal the vodka and place it in a closet for 5 to 10 days. If you just want a little kick in terms of spice, five days is plenty. If you want hotter, then keep it longer. You can also use spicier peppers like habañero or Tabasco. After it has seeped, strain it through a cheese cloth (or multiple coffee filters) and bottle into decorative bottles. Package it with Bloody Mary mix, and some sort of pickled vegetable. I do not recommend dried hot peppers; I tried that once and it was a failure.

I found this green bottle at a Dollar Tree. I always look at dollar type stores before I go to craft stores because I find some great deals in dollar stores but the selection is unpredictable. The Santa costume was made for a wine bottle but I used it on the vodka.

ST. MAYHEM

By Mark Spivak   –   Palm Beach Illustrated

Additives in wine (or anything else) are a source of controversy, and most connoisseurs would react with horror at the idea of drinking a flavored wine.

However, think about this: there are nearly three dozen additives allowed in the production of wine in America. These range from fining agents to chemicals such as copper sulfate, acetaldehyde, urease, catalase, and ammonium sulfate. You can add oak chips to simulate the taste of barrel aging, add or decrease various acids, subject the wine to reverse osmosis, or spin it in a centrifuge. Ever hear of Mega Purple? It’s a thick grape concentrate used to enhance the color of red wines that don’t appear powerful enough.

Take all that into account when viewing the experiments conducted by Rob McDonald, winemaker at Napa’s Art + Farm. McDonald is aging wine on peach, ginger, coffee, jalapeno, and habanero peppers. The wines are called St. Mayhem, and they are currently distributed in 30 states at a price of $25 per bottle.

“I was sitting around one day after work, drinking a coffee-flavored craft beer,” he recalls, “and the light bulb went off. I thought, why can’t we do this with wine?”

He currently makes Sauvignon Blanc aged on habanero and jalapeno, Chardonnay aged on peach and ginger, and Merlot aged on coffee and jalapeno. In very broad terms, the process isn’t much different from the widespread practice of aging wine on its lees (dead yeast cells). Jalapenos and habaneros obviously aren’t natural byproducts of fermentation, but the general concept is the same.

I found his Lake County Sauvignon Blanc to be the most successful of the three. It has mouthwatering acidity and classic grapefruit flavors, with the peppers adding layers of complexity. The heat sneaks up on you and builds gradually, noticeable but not overpowering. The ginger takes over the Chardonnay, adding a peppery kick in the mid palate and creating a lean and focused texture. The red wine is the most radical: McDonald used a Mendocino Merlot to brew a batch of Costa Rican coffee, then aged the wine on jalapenos.

The real payoff of these wines comes with food pairings, particularly spicy cuisines such as Thai, Mexican, or Szechuan, where the spices in the dish balance the heat in the wine. McDonald is focusing on making small batches at a time, since he feels the flavors are more distinctive when they’re fresh.

“Initially I assumed that the customer for St. Mayhem would be younger people who grew up drinking craft beer,’ he says, “but the appeal has been much broader than that. There’s been an explosion of interest, and the people who like them become really exuberant over them.”

US: Sauerkraut resurgence brings less seasonal consumption

In the early part of the 20th century in the United States, sauerkraut was popular because of an influx of European immigrants who brought their food preferences with them. Consumption waned through the following decades, though there is now a resurgence of the product. But unlike consumption during the first wave of popularity, and unlike how it’s still consumed in Europe, the product has more of a year-round appeal in the U.S.
“Sauerkraut was traditionally made in the fall with the late-summer cabbage crop,” said Jeff Wilson of Bubbies Pickles, a seller of pickled and fermented food products in California. “There used to be more seasonal consumption, but, with the current generation, we see that it’s consumed every day or every week.” Renewed interest in the product started about 10 or 15 years ago, and it had a lot to do with evolving ideas about the importance of healthy foods.
“The popularity of fermented foods has increased, and now things like sauerkraut are becoming cornerstones to a healthy diet,”said Wilson. “Sauerkraut used to be served as a side dish, or, as it’s often thought of, as something you put on a hot dog.  But kraut is more versatile and has really become a staple in the everyday diet.”
Sauerkraut consumption has increased such that it is Bubbies’ biggest-selling item. The DIY culture of homebrewing and home-pickling has generated a lot of excitement about fermented items, and Wilson believes that will further drive sales of sauerkraut, even if people can make the product themselves.
“Artisan, high-quality pickled products and fermented products are industries that are super-hot right now,” said Wilson. “People try their hand at pickling and get a taste of these things, and then they opt for the convenience of high-quality products like ours. Home pickling will create a lot of opportunities for many regional brands, but it’s also an overall positive thing for the category.”

Sharky’s Texas Torpedo

Try this amazing sandwich featuring jalapenos from Sharky’s.

Randy Ruben with Sharky’s Bar and Grill in North Dallas makes a steak sandwich called the Texas Torpedo.

6 ounces of thinly stripped (philly steak cut) rib eye steak
1 slice of onion
6 slices of jalapeno
2 ounces butter
4 ounces of queso (Velvetta Cheese and Rotel Original Diced Tomatoes and Green Chilies)
1 French Bread – Split down the middle

Directions

Melt 1 ounce of butter in skillet.

Saute onion and jalapenos.

Heat steak on flat top or skillet.

Mix steak with onions and jalapenos, add queso.

Slice roll, keeping one end connected.  Butter and place face down on flat top or skillet.

Place mixture inside roll.

IPA Pickles

A LA BEER - Ed Rudolph - Marcella Capasso Pickles

You’ll want to whip up extras of these easy-to-make pickles, and keep them on hand through the holidays. They make thoughtful host gifts or in-a-pinch presents for coworkers you forgot to put on your list. Plus, they’re just another great excuse to pick up your favorite IPA.

Makes: Makes 4 (16 oz) jars of pickles

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 14 cup kosher or pickling salt
  • 2 teaspoons celery seeds
  • 2 tablespoons black peppercorns
  • 24 ounces IPA
  • 1 cup crushed ice
  • 5-10 sprigs fresh dill
  • 4 pounds pickling cucumbers

Instructions:

  1. In a pot over medium-high heat, add the vinegar, sugar, salt, celery seeds and peppercorns. Bring to a simmer, stirring just until the sugar and salt dissolve; remove from heat.
  2. Stir in the beer and ice. Allow the brine to sit until it cools to room temperature.
  3. Add the cucumbers in even batches to airtight containers like 16-ounce canning jars; add a few sprigs of dill.
  4. Pour the cooled brine over the cucumbers, making sure all slices are submerged. Chill for at least 24 hours prior to serving. Keep chilled or can properly for shelf storage.