Miso, whey and a pickled surprise

By PRATIK GHOSH   –   DNA

Pratik Ghosh finds new-age pickling methods to tickle your tastebuds.

It’s impossible to see the sunny side of scorching summers, unless you’re pickling. The age-old tradition can be traced back to 2030 BC, when cucumbers bought from India were pickled in the ancient Tigris Valley. Since then vegetables and meat have been sliced and diced and entombed in vessels for round-the-year use. In India, pickles have been around for millennia, although its origins are hazy. The megastar status they enjoy in the country is such that every region contributes an impressive array, both in terms of techniques and the finished products. No matter which part of India you belong to, it’s a part of the thali. Although we know achar to be a Hindi word, it has Persian origins. It means powdered or salted meats or fruits, preserved in salt, vinegar, honey, or syrup.

Traditionally, the first step in home-made pickling is sun-drying the fruits/vegetables/fish/ meat. That explains why the summer months are considered ideal. Though vinegar and salt are widely used for pickling, oil is the most popular medium since it acts as a wall, preventing atmospheric oxygen from interfering with the pickling process. But there are other techniques that make the sun redundant. In this day and age of eating right, pickling in India is also undergoing a healthy makeover with increased emphasis on probiotics. This is where whey (liquid that remains after curdling and straining milk), veg culture and miso (traditional Japanese seasoning prepared by fermenting soybeans with salt and a fungus called koji) come into the picture. Miso can also be made from barley, rice, or other grains. The veggies are fermented using one of these with salt and filtered water to create their own self-preserving acidic liquid. This lactic acid aids digestion when consumed with the fermented vegetables. It’s a win-win situation where taste and health benefits go hand-in-hand.

“Pickling through this process is new in India,” says Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director, Bellona Hospitality, who recently held a workshop with wellness chef Moina Oberoi at a cafe in a Lower Parel mall.

Basic Active Culture Recipe

Courtesy: Moina Oberoi

1 tbsp natural salt (Himalayan salt/sea salt)

1 cup filtered water

1 tsp whey/active vegetable culture/miso

Method

Make your basic brine and set aside. Cut the harder vegetables such as carrot, turnip and radish in small pieces, and softer vegetables like cucumber in large pieces. Clean them thoroughly with filter water. If you’re using active culture brine, you can blanch and shock the harder vegetables (for those who prefer them softer). For the shock treatment, dip the hard ones in boiling water for 10 seconds and put them in ice water till they are cool. The brine must fill up the jar till the top, but also take into account the volume of veggies and give a suitable buffer. Monitor the pickles every 24 hours for a minimum of seven days before refrigerating. Keep tasting along the way. Refrigeration reduces the fermentation process.

Things to check:

Carbonation: Burp the bottle daily to release carbonation. Look out for moulds. If they are white, simply remove it and monitor for a few days. If it doesn’t grow back, your pickle is safe. Any other colour of mould spells doom for your labour of love.

Smell: Your effort has gone to waste if it smells vinegary, alcoholic or funky. “It’s a very thin line between good and bad, so when in doubt, throw it out,” avers Chef Kinny.

Add flavour: After the first seven days, you may add sugar and/vinegar if you want to balance the sweetness and sourness.