RESTAURANT REVIEW: El Toro

Story Originally Appeared on ToNight

There’s a lot happening in Durban’s Mackeurtan Avenue. Since I last popped in there’s The Coop and The Green Parrot, a Japanese attachment to the Wok Box. But Mark and I were here for a Mexican-inspired establishment that’s opened recently – El Toro or The Bull.

Well, it’s a funky spot that spills out on to the pavement. The colours are bright and hot – think pink-striped wallpaper – and the cocktail list matches. I’m sure the bar area buzzes at night. There are bulls’ heads on the walls – one adorned with a giant rosary – that must be for good luck.

The menu introduction, for those who don’t know how to eat tapas, reads. “Make sure your glass is never empty. Leave full, happy and a little bit sideways.” The payoff line says it all: “Tapas and tequila.” Sounds like fun.

We start off with a bowl or good marinated olives while we peruse the menu. And decide to get in the spirit of things and stick it all in the middle of the table and share – tapas style.

Starters may include grilled mushrooms in a white chocolate baba ganoush. Now there’s a flavour sensation I have not tried – nor do I want to. There’s jala bombs – that’s beer-battered jalapenos stuffed with cheese and deep-fried. It’s serve with “gwak” – that’s guacamole to the uninitiated.

Or there’s seared chicken livers, marinated with – you guessed it jalapenos – and served with a spicy Romesco pesto. I enjoyed the sauce – it was one of three bought to the table to accompany the meals.

For those wanting more substantial mains there’s glazed pork belly in chilli and lime, or what’s called a rolled Mexican – that’s rump rolled with jalapeno, cheddar and mozzarella. Chicken comes with a spicy chocolate sauce splashed with lemon. Personally – and I know everyone raved about the Madame Zingara experience – I’ve never been a fan of these chocolate sauces on meat.

Our waiter recommends the ribs in cocoa, honey, chilli and barbeque. Again, one too many flavours there for me. And there’s paella with chicken and olives or you can go the full marinara.

There’s tacos and tortillas topped with a variety of fillings. We went for tortillas with salmon and tuna cervice. The topping was great, even if the tortilla was a shade on the chewy side. There are options with pulled lamb and pulled chicken and ground beef and beans.

We gave the thumbs up to the pulled pork and smoked paprika tacos – and the “ensalata calentado”. This was a warm salad of mixed beans, chourico, onions, tomatoes and wilted baby spinach leaves. Coated in that “gwak”, it boasted lovely punchy flavours. We enjoyed too the empanadas – puff pastry parcels stuffed with goat’s cheese and morcilla sausage. Spanish spanakopita, if you will.

Less successful were the nachos. Mark wanted the plain variety just with cream and cheese. Well they were just plain old nachos, and not the gloriously messy platter I remember from the Stella Sports Club. And the “Mexi golf balls” bombed somewhat. These were supposed to be corn batter mixed with coriander and beans and served with jalapenos – yes there’s a lot of those – and a sour cream yoghurt. They were simply as exciting as sweetcorn fritters – and may have been improved if the yoghurt sauce had come to the table.

Desserts may include churro bites dusted in cinnamon – that’s a Spanish doughnut – or drunken bananas or chillied brownies. All sounds too good, but the advocate had to get back to the office for a deposition. Coffee was enjoyable.

So, it’s far from a load of bull, but not quite hitting the bullseye yet.

Venue: El Toro
Address: 5 Mackeurtan
Avenue, Durban North
Phone: 031 564 3015
Open: Daily noon-11pm.