The recipe for a Korean feast of noodles, fritters, pickles and salad

by Jordan Bourke   –   theguardian

A few cupboard ingredients can be conjured into a simple Korean feast of chicken noodles, fish fritters, onion salad and pickled radish – greater than the sum of its parts and guaranteed to bring some color to a rainy day.

Touching down at a grey, sodden Heathrow airport on a Sunday morning after a sunshine-filled holiday inevitably awakens that “back-to-school” feeling. Luckily, my clever wife makes sure we have the essentials for a restorative and comforting feast as soon as we get home. Being Korean, and knowing how obsessed I am with the vibrant and addictive flavours of her homeland, she opts for traditional Korean fare.

The great thing about Korean cooking is most of the flavouring ingredients have a long shelf life, so they will happily sit in your store cupboard until needed. For example, gochujang – the spicy fermented soybean paste used here in the chicken hotpot – lasts for months on end and can transform a dish in minutes to something deeply flavourful and utterly delicious.

This selection of dishes will make a generous feast packed with different flavours and textures. One of my favourite aspects of the Korean meal is how it is a communal celebration of food. It isn’t split into courses; instead you are presented with a big table of small dishes, each one complementing the other. Here, the chicken, vegetable and noodle hotpot is delicious on its own, but the additional dishes elevate the meal to something greater than the sum of its parts.

Chicken, vegetable and noodle hotpot

The noodles in this dish are made from sweet potato starch and have an unusual consistency, so for this reason, we would encourage you to seek them out in your local Asian store, or buy them online from websites such as Sous Chef. If you can’t find them, use regular glass noodles. Traditionally this dish is made withoutgochujang, the ubiquitous Korean chilli paste made from fermented soy beans. However, we love the smoky heat it imparts, so we usually add a teaspoon or two to the sauce. If you have an aversion to heat, feel free to leave it out.

Serves 4–6
120g Korean sweet potato glass noodles (dang myeon)
2 tbsp vegetable oil
800g chicken (cut of your choice)
2 sweet potatoes, diced
1 large carrot, diced
1 large onion, diced
2 whole dried chillies (optional)
6 garlic cloves, crushed
4cm piece of ginger, very finely grated
½ red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced
½ green chilli, deseeded and finely sliced

For the sauce
5 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp honey
1½ tbsp roasted sesame seed oil
1-2 tsp gochujang or doenjang (optional)
½ tsp black pepper
700ml chicken stock or water

1 Put the noodles into a bowl, cover with water and leave to soak.

2 Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan with a lid over a high heat. Add the chicken and fry for 3–4 minutes on all sides, or until golden brown.

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3 Remove from the pan, then add the potatoes, carrot, onion and dried chillies if using. Cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4 Add the garlic and ginger and fry for 1 minute. Return the chicken to the pan together with all the sauce ingredients. Cover and bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes.

5 Drain the noodles and add them to the pan with the chicken. Put the lid on and simmer for another 5 minutes until the chicken, vegetables and noodles are cooked through.

6 Serve in bowls with the sliced chillies scattered over.

Cod and courgette fritters
This is a very simple dish, best eaten straight off the pan – make sure the fish and courgette are sliced up and ready to go, so they can be fried at the last moment when all the other dishes are on the table.

For the fritters
300g firm white fish fillets (cod, snapper, sole), skinned and deboned
300g courgettes, cut into thick rounds
200g plain or white spelt flour
3 eggs, lightly beaten
Vegetable oil, to fry
Sea salt and ground white pepper

For the dipping sauce
2 tbsp soy sauce
1½ tsp rice wine vinegar
½ tsp toasted sesame seeds

1 Slice the fish into ½cm-thick slices, about 6cm long. Spread them out on a plate and season. On a separate plate, do the same with the sliced courgette.

2 Put the flour and beaten egg into two separate bowls and position beside your stovetop.

3 Add 1 tbsp vegetable oil to a large pan set over a medium heat. In batches, coat the fish and courgette slices in flour, then dip into the egg mixture, and transfer to the hot pan. Fry for 2 minutes on each side until golden, remove to a heatproof dish and keep warm while you fry the rest. Add more oil as you go, if needed. (Keep the heat at medium: if it is too high it will burn the outside before the inside is cooked; if the heat is too low you will end up with soggy fritters.)

4 In a bowl, combine the ingredients for the dipping sauce and serve immediately with the fish and courgette fritters.

Spring onion salad

10 spring onions, halved lengthways
3 tsp roasted sesame seed oil
2½ tsp gochugaru (Korean chilli powder), or chilli flakes
Sea salt
½ tsp black sesame seeds

1 Slice the halved spring onions into very thin 5cm lengths and submerge in a bowl of ice-cold water. Cover and refrigerate until they have curled up.

2 When ready to serve, remove from the fridge, drain thoroughly and pat dry with kitchen paper.

3 Put the spring onions in a bowl and gently combine with the oil and gochugaru or chilli flakes. Season to taste and serve immediately with the sesame seeds scattered over.

Quick pickled radish

200g daikon radish, peeled and cut into thin julienne strips
1 tsp fine sea salt
1 spring onion, very finely chopped
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped
1½ tsp gochugaru (Korean chilli powder), or chilli flakes
1½ tsp rice wine vinegar
1½ tsp honey
½ tsp sesame seeds

1 Combine the radish and salt in a bowl and leave to one side for 10 minutes. Put into a sieve and gently squeeze out any excess liquid. Do not rinse.

2 Return the radish to a dry bowl and combine with the remaining ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasoning with a little more salt or chilli powder/flakes if needed. This dish can be made in advance, refrigerated in an airtight container, and will last for up to 3 days.

 

Hot dog, it’s Red Sox season

 

In honor of Opening Day at Fenway April 11, it’s time to hunt down some good dogs to start the season right.

There’s always the Fenway Frank, but for the pre-game, you might want to start at the Harp, which just debuted a new All Star Hot Dog menu. offered during Red Sox games (unless there’s a game at the Garden).

Chef Mike Gracie of The Harp, a sports bar just steps from TD Garden and North Station, kicked off the 2016 Red Sox Season with a creative line-up of fun frankfurter flavors heaped atop a base of all-beef Block and Barrel on a buttered and buttery grilled hot dog bun. Each dog is $3, but I suggest ordering a platter of all of ‘em, including a plain dog.

I took a couple of 12-year-old members of Red Sox Nation to try out the dogs. They tried flavors they’d never consider before, and some of them they were surprised that they liked.

THE GREEK — Feta & roasted red peppers. They didn’t like the feta so much. I liked the mix of salty and savory, struggling to prop the cheese and diced tomatoes back onto the hot dog. It was a great combination.

GUAC DOG — house-made guacamole mixed with sour cream, and topped with chopped red onion. Henry liked this one, although Xander was no fan of the guacamole. I loved this combo, so creamy.

REUBEN — Sauerkraut, melted Swiss & Russian dressing. I had to convince these boys to try it, and they were surprised it wasn’t that bad. “Not a strong flavor,” said Xander. Add his friend Henry, “It was vinegary, and I didn’t really taste the Russian dressing.” So that’s a win, I guess. I thought this was a fun hot dog to try.

MARGHERITA — House made mozzarella with roasted tomatoes & basil. Xander: “Very tomato-ey.” said Henry: “I loved it. Hot dog that tastes like a pizza!” This was perhaps their fave.

SPICY PICKLES + BACON — Housemade crunchy pickles & tiny cubes of smoked bacon. The chef makes the pickles in-house, with apple cider vinegar brown sugar and pickling spices, including cardamom and allspice. Henry: “The pickles blended well with the bacon and the hot dogs.” Xander liked the pickles, and he liked the bacon, although he didn’t like them together so much. You can also order the pickles as a side.

SRIRACHA DOG — Kale slaw, with broccoli, brussels sprouts, carrots and ranch dressing, Sriracha BBQ & ranch dressing. Apparently, the kids didn’t like the spicy sauce. “It hurts!” said Xander. “It killed me!” said Henry. But I love spicy, and combined with a healthy salad atop the dog, this was a full meal.

Be sure to order a side of fries, which are crispy on the outside, and fluffy on the inside, perfectly seasoned. We also had the xxx salad, with xxx

Open for lunch, dinner and late night dining, the Harp is a fave for happy hour, pre-game gatherings and post-game partying with plenty of sports on the many TVs. It has a huge square bar, with two separate doors, with entertainment at night.

Other ideas for Opening Day Dogs:

  • At Tico, Chef Michael Schlow’s famous Schlow Burger with oozing cheddar cheese, crispy onion strings, and renowned horseradish black pepper sauce is making its way from the exclusive late night menu to the all day menu just for Opening Day. Tico guests can get their hands on a Schlow Burger and any draft beer for just $20. Tico, 222 Berkeley Street, www.ticoboston.com
  • The Sonoran Dog at Lone Star Taco Bar East is a Pearl hot dog wrapped in bacon and deep fried, topped with refried beans, pico de gallo, chipotle mustard, and ancho cream in a New England-style brioche bun. lonestar-boston.com
  • Griddled Dog at Parlor Sports offers a griddled sausage and buttered bun, with toppings like house-made pickles, chili, and bacon. 3 Beacon St., Somerville, parlorsportsbar.com.
  • Max & Leo’s at Game On Fenway offers a coal-fired all-beef hot dog is charred in a 900-degree oven and topped with house-made chili and cheese, or any two pizza toppings such as oasted red peppers, caramelized onions, pepperoni, bacon, or nacho cheese. 82 Lansdowne St., Boston, gameonboston.com.
  • Dogzilla at Hojoko is a Neuske’s hot dog is bacon-wrapped, American cheese and jalapeño-stuffed, and deep fried, the glazed with sweet kabayaki sauce and sprinkled with umami bonito flakes, 1271 Boylston St., Boston, hojokoboston.com.

A Kick in the Taste Buds

WORDS BY REBECCA HANLON   –   Harrisburg Magazine

Appalachian Brewing Company Jalapeno Poppers

Roll up your sleeves and prepare to sweat a little because the Bacon-Wrapped Poppers at Appalachian Brewing Company mean business. While these stuffed jalapenos seem like an innocent-enough appetizer, their fresh, never-frozen attributes paired with other quality ingredients leave some patrons reaching for one cold beer after another to wash it all down.

Chef Kyle Mason started serving the poppers just last year, and they are consistently one of the best-selling dishes on the menu, he says.

“People are familiar with the concept of poppers, and if they’re looking for something with a decent kick, it’s usually their go-to,” Mason says.

The fresh jalapenos are cut in half and de-seeded to cut back on some of the heat. A little culinary tidbit, Mason says, is that the bulk of the heat in these peppers is often found in the seeds. But because these peppers are fresh, he adds, they never really mellow out the way frozen peppers would.

The peppers are filled with a cream-cheese stuffing that features a mix of Applewood bacon, sautéed onion, tomatoes and panko bread crumbs. The jalapenos are then wrapped with a piece of the same Applewood bacon. Instead of being breaded and tossed in the deep fryer, the way many traditional poppers are made, Mason likes to simply bake his in the oven.

An order of six is served up crispy and fresh with a side of homemade ranch sauce.

“Every pepper is different, so you’re looking at peppers that typically fall between medium and hot on the heat scale,” he says. “It’s a labor-intensive appetizer, but the guests just love them, so we’ll keep making them.”

The 15 craziest ballpark foods around MLB for 2016

, Detroit Free Press

Baseball stadiums have become breeding grounds for crazy, innovative food options in recent years.

And with baseball season opening up next week,the Detroit Tigers and other teams around the majors and minors are unveiling their latest culinary masterpieces to whet your appetites.

Now, we’ve seen some pretty outlandish items over the years. The Tigers’ minor-league affiliate West Michigan Whitecaps have the Fifth Third Burger, featuring a 5/3-pound burger patty. Last year, the Arizona Diamondbacks unleashed the “D-Bat,” an 18-inch corn dogstuffed with bacon, cheddar cheese and jalapenos. And then there’s the Philadelphia Phillies, who began serving hard liquor to fans at home games in 2015.

But this year’s new food choices might top them all. Here are some of the new menu items you can order starting in 2016:

The Burgerizza (Atlanta Braves)

Yes, it’s exactly how it sounds. It’s a burger, and the top bun is a pepperoni pizza. Jim Gaffigan would be proud.

Chicken & Donut Skewer (Texas Rangers)

In case you’re craving breakfast and lunch. Why not have both?

Cheeseburger Dog (Arizona Diamondbacks)

Remember the “D-Bat” we talked about earlier? Here’s the Diamondbacks’ latest creation: A fried hot dog filled with bacon cheeseburger. Our stomachs are growling already.

Champions Alley Burger & Hot Dog (Kansas City Royals)

The defending World Series champions are celebrating their triumph last fall with a tasty new menu item.

Cracker Jack & Mac dog (Pittsburgh Pirates)

This one’s pretty self-explanatory: A hot dog filled with Cracker Jacks and mac & cheese. But it’s also got jalapenos and caramel sauce, to boot.

T.E.D. (“The Everything Dog”) (Atlanta Braves)

Here’s another Braves special: A foot-long hot dog that has, well, everything on it, from beer cheese to jalapenos to fries to chili to popcorn to… well, you get the picture.

Chicken & Waffle on a Stick (Toronto Blue Jays)

Got a passport? Then you might want to check out the latest hand-held deliciousness over at Rogers Centre.

Sweet Potato Waffle Chicken Sandwich (Houston Astros)

Sticking with the chicken & waffle theme. This gut-busting creation also has Greek yogurt inside.

108 Burger (New York Mets)

Here’s one of those new stacked burgers for 2016, served at Citi Field.

The Wicked Pig (Texas Rangers)

Everything is big in Texas. That includes this double-decker sandwich filled with pulled pork, bacon, sausage, prosciutto, ham and pork rinds.

The Barnyard Wedding (New York Yankees)

In case you ever find yourself at Yankee Stadium, might as well make the most of the trip with this stacked sandwich on a pretzel bun.

Peanut Butter Pretzel Coated Thick Cut Bacon On A Stick (New York Mets)

Who doesn’t like bacon?

Brat Pop (Detroit Tigers)

Ah, yes, time for the hometown team (you can check out all of Comerica Park’s new food choices here). There were plenty of good ones to choose from, but this “Brat Pop” seems like one of the more interesting ones: A brat patty “battered, fried, and served on a stick.”

Cheetos Hot Dog (Texas Rangers)

One more from the ballpark in Arlington, Texas. Because we’ve all wondered what a hot dog would be like with Flamin’ Hot Cheetos on it.

Tater Tot Chop (Atlanta Braves)

Love tater tots? Who are we kidding, of course you do. Remember, Atlanta’s just down the road along I-75

BONUS: Slider Dog with Fruit Loops (Cleveland Indians)

This is a late submission, but we had to throw it in here. Fruit loops on a hot dog? With mac and cheese? Sounds gross. But we’d try it.

Contact Brian Manzullo: bmanzullo@freepress.com. Follow him on Twitter@BrianManzullo.

Teaching kids to cook could bridge gap between farm, plate

by

I finally had my extended family over for Easter dinner last weekend.

Actually, by the end of the weekend I’d thrown two Easter dinners — the latter being a more im-promptu affair with friends to deal with the 10 pound ham that had taken over my precious fridge space. But that’s another story.

On Sunday night, as my family sat down to eat, the dinner conversation suddenly shifted to pickling, or rather my one young cousin’s utter love of pickles, much to her mother’s horror.

Which is when my smart and highly accomplished 16-year-old cousin discovered pickles are actually made from cucumbers.

Her mind was blown.

Seeing it as a teaching moment, the next 15 to 20 minutes passed with the adults at the table sharing stories about spending time in the kitchen with our mothers canning all kinds of delicious goodies: pickles, pickled eggs, carrots, beets, beans, jams, chutney and salsa.

It was then when we suddenly realized — despite the treasured memories, none of us sitting at the table had a clue how to make those goodies on our own.

Turns out we’re not alone.

As politicians grapple with a burgeoning obesity crisis, nutritionists and researchers are finding that more and more Canadians are lacking basic kitchen skills.

While the 2015 consumer trend report on Canadians’ eating habits found that the number of meals eaten at home had remained consistent, more Canadians were opting for pre-made or frozen meals. Seventy-five percent of the meals, the report found, were prepared in less than 15 minutes.

The Health and Stroke Foundation has repeatedly found that Canadians say today’s hectic lifestyle doesn’t leave time for cooking healthy meals. At the same time, home economics and cooking classes in Canadian schools are harder to come by, despite schools repeatedly being seen as a key to encouraging healthy living.

School breakfast and lunch programs, nutrition and cooking classes and placing greater value on physical education were just some of the suggestions for teaching our children the importance of eating properly and remaining physically active, the Senate health committee noted in its recent report on Canadian obesity.

The report also called for a review and overhaul of Canada’s beleaguered Food Guide, which is something that critics say needs to happen immediately.

Teaching Canadian children how to cook is not a new idea.

In 2014, the Ontario Federation of Agriculture launched its 6 x 16 challenge aimed at encouraging parents to teach their children basic cooking skills.

The idea is that by the time they’re 16, children would be able to cook and plan six healthy, wholesome meals from scratch.

The initiative was later adopted as part of the Canadian Federation of Agriculture’s food strategy and included as part of the NDP’s food policy.

With the Liberals committed to developing a Canadian food strategy of their own, it’s likely that improving basic cooking skills will be put back on the table.

If adopted, these initiatives must be flexible and take into account Canada’s busy schedules, cultural preferences and on-the-go lifestyles. Tips to meet challenges such as cooking for one, a lack of freezer space and fixed incomes should also be included.

As food prices continue to rise, teaching Canadians of all ages how to budget, plan and cook meals could help ease the current grocery budget pinch, as well as slim down waistlines.

Political negotiations are set to begin shortly with the provinces and territories about the next federal Health Accord and the next Agricultural Funding Framework.

Perhaps it’s time officials took steps to bridge the ever present gap between the farm, the kitchen and people’s plates.

Canadians may just end up healthier if they do.

Kelsey Johnson is a reporter with iPolitics, www.ipolitics.ca.

The secret of a good pickle

A neighborhood aunty spills the beans after a few jasmine martinis; the steeping process is the key.

By Shobha Narayan   –   live mint

It was while sipping the Karuveppilai Martini at the Vivanta by Taj—Connemara in Chennai that I figured out how to seduce Aunty Stella into spilling her recipe secrets. Stella isn’t really my aunt; she is a neighbourhood aunty. Her real name is Seethalakshmi Ambujakshi.

You can understand why people in Jamaica, where her husband spent most of his career, decided to call her Stella-darlin’, with that lilting island trill.

Like many Indians who live in faraway lands, Aunty Stella cooked every time she was homesick. And what she specialized in was pickles. Shrimp pickles, mango pickles of various kinds, gooseberry, tomato, garlic, roots, tubers, you name it and Stella could pickle it. She would not share her recipes though. At 80, she was old school.

“You want my recipes? You got to pry it out of my cold dead hands,” she would say.

We—her extended family and friends—tried many things to get her to spill her secrets. Some enterprising nieces gave her a spice box with pre-measured amounts of spices to see how much she used while making a dish. Stella wisened up to their wily ways quickly and soon started travelling with her own spice box, keeping its contents locked. Getting Stella’s recipes became a running dare within the family; an unofficial bet, with the stakes growing higher each year.

This time, in Chennai, I decided that it was do or die. And what I decided to do was to get her drunk. Stella, a lifelong teetotaller, was going to drink several glasses ofkaruveppilai (curry leaf), mace and jasmine cocktails with Chettinad food at the Raintree restaurant. The curry leaves would mask the flavour of the liquor. She would think she was drinking a mocktail, as she usually did. Along the way, I would pump her for information.

I began smoothly—like the drink. I knew I had to throw her off the scent. So I discussed the scent of summer drinks. “I love a well-constructed cocktail,” I said, sipping my jasmine martini and feeling a little shaken but not necessarily stirred. “The problem is that I try to make cocktails healthy, which, you could argue, is an oxymoron. For example, I coat the rim of the glass with black salt because it is healthier than normal salt. This changes the taste of the margarita or Bloody Mary.”

Stella nodded, chewing on some spicy stew. Take a sip of your drink, I said encouragingly. It will balance the heat of the food.

“Why not use asafoetida instead of black salt? After all,heeng is the healthiest of spices,” she said.

I smiled to myself. This was going to be as easy as getting goop out of a baby.

Stella was getting involved with the recipe, almost in spite of herself. I would trick her into thinking that she was helping me construct a perfect cocktail. Through it, I would get her views on proportion, which, after all, is the secret to great food and drink, be it a pickle or a pina colada. With every glass, Stella would become more expansive. She would invite me to be her heir apparent in the pickling business. “Stella & Shoba: the Pickle Queens of South India”. I could almost see the signboard.

The waiter came to inquire if we wanted a refill. Stella began quizzing him on the flavour profiles of the drink. How did they get the jasmine smell in the drink? she asked. He said that they steeped Madurai jasmine flowers in sugar syrup till the flowers released their scent. The same applied to curry leaves. This then is the beauty of the summer cocktail. If you have good liquor, you can add pretty much anything to give it some pizzazz. And what Stella decided to add was heeng, arguably the Indian spice with the most pungent smell. Well, she demanded belligerently, if truffles are a delicacy in Italy and stinky cheese a delicacy in France, why not asafoetida in India?

As the evening progressed, my plan went beautifully. Stella leaned back and became languid. She giggled a lot and gazed at the full moon. She quizzed me about my children and told me about her grandchildren. And she told me that the secret of a great pickle was the steeping process. Just like the jasmine flowers were steeped in sugar syrup, good pickles required brine and space in the sun in order to release their flavours. Everything mattered. Old-fashioned pickle jars were the best because they distributed the heat from the outside evenly into all parts of the pickled vegetables or fruits. You had to shake the pickle jar every day in the beginning and every other day later on, just as champagne bottles were turned slowly: remuage, as the French say it. “In the end, it becomes like nectar,” said Stella. “A perfect combination of tastes exploding in your mouth.” Her eyes twinkled. “Just like the vodka in this jasmine martini that you are passing off to me as a mocktail.”

Turns out that Aunty Stella had learnt to imbibe liquor in her old age. She was partial to gin and tonic—“the quinine helps my knees,” she said—but she was cool with a martini too, either shaken or stirred.

As for the pickle recipes, she gave some to me. Pity I cannot reveal them here; or ever.