Block & Grinder chef gets creative with pickles
To say chef Ben Philpott of Block & Grinder is obsessed with pickles is an understatement. His co-workers tease that he would “pickle his shoes if he could.”
I was having lunch at B&G with friends and out came a lovely assortment of pickled vegetables. Since my friends read my column (thank you), the entire table chimed in and asked if I could get the recipe.
Philpott is board chair of the Piedmont Culinary Guild and is extremely proud of his involvement. The guild is a gathering of chefs, farmers, culinary educators and other dedicated food professionals who are committed to sharing resources and promoting education to support our local food system.
So it wasn’t surprising that he jumped at the chance to share his knowledge of pickling with us. Like the guild’s philosophy, it’s one more way he can help bring his culinary community together.
Philpott’s enthusiasm for pickling was evident as he sat down at our table and explained the process. The best part is that his method of refrigerator pickling is so simple. It’s so simple, in fact, you will likely regret not making them sooner. You can use any variety of vegetables: Kirby cucumbers, carrots, radishes, cauliflower, green beans, kohlrabi, jalapeños … you name it.
The recipe can be easily tailored to your taste. Do you like a sweeter pickle? Add a little more sugar. Do you like it spicy? Add another tablespoon of red pepper flakes or extra cloves of garlic. You can be creative and experiment.
When prepping your vegetables, keep in mind that you will be eating the entire pickle. Trim off the inedible ends of onions, for example. Also, if you’re cutting your vegetables into pieces, make sure they are somewhat uniform in size to ensure consistency in the final product.
As an added bonus, Philpott handed over the recipe for our favorite condiment on the Block & Grinder menu. It’s a bright and creamy aioli with fresh cilantro and a hint of spice from pickled jalapeños. Smear it on a sandwich, use it as a dip for fries, dollop it on fish tacos. It’s one of the best spreads I have ever tasted.
One warning, though: Philpott uses commercial equipment, which has higher power. When I tested the aioli in my blender at home, a simple Waring, I had trouble getting it to come together. I ended up whisking the oil mixture into the egg yolks by hand, which worked. Or you can make it even easier and simply whisk the ground-up pickled jalapenos into store-bought mayonnaise. (Duke’s would be Philpott’s preference, of course.)
Are you looking for a recipe from a Charlotte-area restaurant? Send your request to Jennifer Lover,jen@jenlover.com or on Instagram (@jenniferlover). Please include your name, why you like the recipe, the area where you live and the restaurant’s location. Lover is a creative director, stylist and cook who lives in Charlotte.
BLOCK & GRINDER
2935 Providence Road; 704-364-2100. (A second location will open in January in the Lake Norman LangTree development.)
Online: blockandgrinder.com.
CHEF BEN’S PICKLING BRINE
3 cups apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup salt
1/4 cup sugar
3 cloves garlic, crushed
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes (crushed red pepper)
3 cups ice
In a large, nonreactive pot, combine all of the ingredients except ice and bring to a boil over high heat, whisking vigorously to dissolve the salt and sugar.
Remove from heat and add the ice to quickly cool the pickling liquid. The liquid should be cooler than room temperature. Place in the refrigerator to cool if needed.
Use approximately 12 ounces (just under a pound, or about 2 cups) of your chosen vegetable. Trim them or cut into large pieces and place them in a clean quart-size container. Cover with enough pickling liquid to completely submerge and refrigerate.
Pickling time will vary based on the vegetables (the larger the vegetable, the longer it will take.) It usually takes about a week or two until the flavors have developed and the pickles are ready to eat.
PICKLED JALAPEÑO AIOLI
3 cups blended or canola oil
1 cup pickled jalapeño slices
1 to 2 bunches cilantro, stems included (about 1 packed cup)
4 egg yolks
Salt to taste
Place the oil, jalapeños, and cilantro in a high-powered blender (see note). Blend on high for about a minute until smooth.
In a food processor, start blending the egg yolks, then slowly drizzle (a very slow stream is important for emulsification) the oil mixture into the yolks until the mixture thickens to a mayonnaise consistency.
Season with salt and a little bit of the pickling liquid from the jalapeños.
Note: If you don’t have a high-powered blender like a VitaMix, you may have trouble getting the aioli to emulsify smoothly. You can whisk the oil and jalapeno mixture into the egg yolks by hand, adding the oil very slowly. Or you can skip making the aioli and whisk the chopped jalapenos and cilantro into a good-quality prepared mayonnaise, such as Duke’s.
Yield: About 4 cups, but the recipe can be quartered if you have a mini food processor or if you choose to whisk the aioli together by hand.
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